A Cliffside View

Today’s Date: September 22, 2025

Today’s Start Point: North Bend, Oregon

Today’s End Point: Gold Beach, Oregon

Today’s Miles: 87.13 Miles

Cumulative Miles: 576.1 Miles

We awoke (ok I awoke) to great weather this morning. I wanted to hit the road early to get a good start to the day. The morning was a little chilly, about 50 degrees, but there was a small ship advisory with strong winds coming out of the north. Since I was going south, what’s bad for the fishermen is good for Jimmy.

As I was getting my bike ready outside the room, I struck up a conversation with Rick from El Paso, Texas. Rick was bike touring and staying at our hotel. Rick is now my hero. If you think riding a bike across the country is a big deal, Rick is riding his bike around the circumference of the US. He started in San Francisco last September, rode along the southern border and through the gulf states, up the Atlantic coast to Maine, along the northern border to Seattle, and now down the coast back to San Francisco. He is going solo and is probably in his mid-50s. Amazing job and a very nice guy.

I could have talked all day but it was time to hit the road. I kept on my southward journey and immediately came to Charleston, Oregon. The road went straight up after Charleston giving my legs a reason to wake up.

Once at the top of the climb, the rode stayed on a heavily forested plateau, with various ups and downs along the way. The road surface was pretty bad so I was mindful of my tires. There was not much traffic so I could be with my thoughts in the morning stillness.

Eventually, I descended from the heights with an exciting downhill plunge. About halfway down I saw another bike traveler and I slowed to talk. Her name was Pam and she was from Montana. She was part of a twelve person group that was riding an organized tour with Adventure Cycling, the same organization that provides the maps I use for my travels. She said they had a support van and a guide who hung at the back to help any stragglers. They camped every night and the guides would go ahead and set up their camp. They were averaging 55 miles a day with a rest day every eight days. It was nice to talk and ride, although it was difficult on a descent. Eventually we said goodbye and I went on my way.

The next town was Bandon, a cute harbor town with a historic section. I stopped for a bagel and met a few more from the Adventure Cycling group, saying hi again to Pam as she caught up.

The climb after Bandon took me to Coquille Point. The view was awe-inspiring. Rocks with names like Table Rock and Face Rock jutted out of the water in every direction, the waves booming against the rocks. If I try to describe it, it will sound even more cheesy than usual. Let me just say it was one of the more remarkable landscapes I have seen. As I have said many times, pictures can’t capture the beauty or the feelings that are evoked.

I could have stayed for a few hours but it was not to be, I had to keep moving. I dropped down to Highway 101, which at this point had a wide shoulder and the wind was behind me. I have to admit at this point the scenery, although pretty, was not photo worthy. I thought if the rest of the ride was like this I would be at our final destination, Gold Beach, early.

Along the way I chatted with three teachers from the Hudson Valley in New York, a couple and a friend. They were newly retired and riding from Seattle to Redlands, California. I went ahead of them and when I was having a bagel break, they came by me. I passed them again before a hill. Once we hit the climb, one of the teachers flew by me which surprised me since he was carrying a lot of gear. My ego challenged (such a stupid thing at this age), I sped up to his wheel and pulled alongside him to talk. I complimented on his climbing prowess, to which he informed me that he was on an electric bike (I seriously could not tell). My ego assuaged, I went ahead as he waited for his friends.

I also spoke with Dave, another Adventure Cyclist rider who was from Maui. He had tried a couple of solo long distance rides but had to end them prematurely. He looked immensely satisfied with how his trip was going so far with the group.

I was soon disabused of the thought that the rest of the day’s ride would be lacking in wow factor visuals. I came to the town of Port Orford which has a small park just south of the town called the Heads. As the name implies, Heads gets its name from the numerous rocks that poke out from the water. The backdrops to the rocks are cliffs on the far side and breaking waves. Every time I think that THIS view is the most magnificent view that I have ever seen, another view challenges that thought.

My delight continued as I rode further south and the road remained high on the shore with the land dropping sharply next to the road. What should have taken me 15 minutes to ride took me over an hour as I kept stopping for photos or just to take in the view. The hardest part was keeping my eyes on the road as I was constantly tempted to take a quick look.

At this point I received a text from Leslie asking where I was, as she had just arrived in Port Orford. I described the road she was about to travel and she informed me that she had just met Rick, my hero. Les had been talking to another couple and a cyclist. At a certain point Rick asked Leslie if her husband was named Jim. This tribe of cyclists are tight.

I finally dropped down for the final approach to Gold Beach. On the way I passed the Prehistoric Gardens, a roadside attraction that has been there since 1955. I stopped for a few photos (since both my grandson and his parents are huge dino fans). Les had more time so she toured the grounds, calling it a combination of hokey and beautiful.

The last hurdle to get to Gold Beach was to cross the Isaac Lee Paterson bridge, an impressive art deco style two lane bridge over the Rogue River. Yes it was pretty, but it was long with two lanes and no shoulder. Since you are reading this, I obviously safely made it across.

Unlike the hotels of last year, the hotel we are staying at is far more than livable. We have a balcony overlooking the beach and even have hot water.

Les and I went to the Barnacle Bistro (sounds like it should be in SpongeBob SquarePants), a casual establishment that specializes in local seafood. It probably only seated 20 people. About halfway through our meal I turned around and there were the three New York teachers. Without my helmet and sunglasses they did not recognize me but eventually I was the guy who they kept passing over and over. I introduced Les and we swapped war stories of past bike tours.

Finally, it was time to go back to the hotel. Leslie had picked this hotel not only for its location on the beach, but also the nightly light show. From our balcony we could see a huge screen set up. At 8:00 pm, it started with a nicely made travelogue about the parks and beaches in the area. As the 15 minute movie played, the trees were lit up by color changing up lights.

It was after the short travelogue, the real fun began. On the screen an abridged version of the Sound of Music played, showing key songs and scenes. All the while the trees were illuminated with changing lights and lasers played about on the lawn, all choreographed to the music. It was hokey, but also sweet in a way, a reminder of simpler things. Little did we realize that a little bit of Vegas would be hiding out on the southern Oregon Coast.

Tomorrow we leave Oregon for California. I think my chain is about to give up the ghost so I am hoping to stop at the next bike shop which is 25 miles away.