Avenue of the Giants

Today’s Date: September 25, 2025

Today’s Start Point: Eureka, California

Today’s End Point: Garberville, California

Today’s Miles: 79.94 Miles

Cumulative Miles: 803.57 Miles

We awoke today to a foggy and cloudy day. At the starting point, Eureka, the temperature was 50 degrees, whereas at our destination, the temperature was supposed to be in the high 80’s degrees. That meant one thing-dress in layers.

The route out of Eureka was on a well made and maintained bike path. I followed it for the first five miles which made for some easy pedaling to warm up my legs. I rode along the harbor, but there was not much to see due to the fog.

I rode briefly on Highway 101 and then onto small farm roads. The route took me away from the coast, and for the next 20 miles I pedaled past multiple farm animals.

I eventually came to the town of Ferndale. I stopped to eat a bagel because it was a nice place to take a break. The town looked as if it was frozen in time in about 1910. All of the storefronts and homes were in the Victorian style. As I was eating my bagel a young man pulled up on his fully loaded bike. He was currently unemployed so he was taking this break to travel the coast on his bike. Like most of us on the road, he was looking for a grocery store for some supplies. After a brief chat I was on my way, back into the fog.

I wound up and down through the farmland, eventually coming to Highway 101. The sky started to clear up and the sun was peeking through.

I eventually exited the Highway to the Avenue of the Giants, a 20 mile road that went through a redwood forest. The road was perfect and the air cool as I pedaled through areas that have not seen sunlight for generations. The trees were massive and thick, huddled close together.

As I said, the Avenue goes on for miles. Due to the lack of cars, it was just me and the sound of my bike and the forest. This was one of my most enjoyable days on the bike. I am not sure of the physics of my experience, but I always seemed to be slightly descending (I am not sure when I gained altitude before the Avenue).

I stopped for my second bagel break at a Park store on the Avenue. While there, Rick (from Maine and Florida) questioned me about the various electronic gizmos on my bike. He and his wife had been in their RV going on 134 days, traveling from their home in Florida up to Alaska and the Yukon and now back to Florida. We traded stories about what we had seen in our travels, with mine only a thimbleful to their bucket. They were very pleasant and I would probably still be talking to them if I had not clumsily excused myself to keep moving.

I continued through this glorious forest and realized I was running out of water. Out of the ether came my redemption in the form of Leslie bearing Gatorade. She had just finished a hike in Founders Grove (along the Avenue) and just happened upon me at the best time. I was a little disappointed she had not stopped at the “Drive Thru Tree” and the “House in a Tree”, two mid-twentieth century era roadside attractions. Sigh, I am sure there will be more opportunities.

We parted ways in our separate modes of transportation, and unfortunately the Avenue eventually ended. It was a beautiful experience among the solitude of the trees. If you can’t ride your bike down the Avenue (which you really should), take an opportunity to drive through.

At this point it was about 15 miles to our destination, Garberville, California. I did not get back on Highway 101, but took side roads along the Eel River.

Whereas earlier I had been in either foggy farmlands or rich forests, the area I was riding through now reminded me of Eastern Colorado. Grass was the color of straw and large rocks pushed through the soil. The Eel River had as much dry riverbed as water. It’s easy to see how a fire could get completely out of control.

In addition, the temperature was in the upper 80’s, a 30 degree swing from the projected high in Eureka. Les had talked to a local and he said that temperatures vary wildly depending on how close you were to the coast. I had shed most of my layers miles ago but the heat was starting to get uncomfortable.

I rode through the heat until finally getting to our final destination of Garberville. The room was at a hotel chain (no, not Motel 6) and it was fine. There was not much in the vicinity to eat, so we looked and saw there was a restaurant about two miles south of our hotel at the historic Benbow Inn (actually on the National List of Historic Buildings).

I know I have not been kind over the last few days concerning “historic” hospitality establishments, but the Benbow Inn was the real deal. Les and I looked at each other and were tempted to move our belongings to the Inn, but in the end were too tired.

We sat out on their outdoor terrace serenaded by a two person band (serenaded is too kind, I believe the singer is still looking for that elusive key that works for him). Of course, a few tables over were the three New York teachers that we have now seen at dinner three of the last four nights. I asked them where we are all eating tomorrow.

With darkness setting in, it was time for us to head back to our corporate hotel and get to bed. Not as nice as the Benbow Inn, but much better than last year.